Bearded Dragon

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Pogona

Eastern Bearded Dragon (Pogona barbata)

Kingdom:	Animalia
Phylum:	Chordata
Class:	Reptilia
Order:	Squamata
Suborder:	Sauria
Family:	Agamidae
Subfamily:	Agaminae
Genus:	Pogona

Species

Pogona barbata
Pogona henrylawsoni
Pogona microlepidota
Pogona minima
Pogona minor
Pogona mitchelli
Pogona nullarbor
Pogona vitticeps

Bearded Dragon is the common name for any agamid lizard in the genus Pogona. Bearded Dragons are popular exotic pets in many places, notably the species Pogona vitticeps, the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon.

1 Characteristics
2 Bearded Dragons as pets
3 Footnotes
4 Gallery
5 External links
6 References

An Eastern Bearded Dragon displaying its beard

Bearded Dragons have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 24 inches head-to-tail. When threatened or aroused, they will expand a spiny pouch under their jaw to make them appear larger. This pouch, especially in its expanded state, resembles a beard, lending the animal their name, this pouch will also turn black, also contributing to the "bearded look". Males are often slightly larger than females, with a larger head in proportion to their bodies, but females are often slightly more heavily set. Males also typically have darker "beards," and have two bulges just posterior to the cloaca, where only a single, medially-located lump is present in a female. Bearded Dragons have a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. Their colour ranges from light tan to dark brown or green, depending on their native soil, often with highlights of black, or brilliant red or gold, and can change somewhat depending upon their internal condition. Some captive populations have been selectively bred for more brilliant red and gold colorations. As juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are mostly terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Bearded Dragons occupy a large range of habitats from the desert to dry forests and scrublands.[2]

All species are from Australia, but they have been exported worldwide and bred widely in captivity. In the wild, the various species are widely distributed throughout different regions of Australia. Bearded Dragons live about 20 years with proper care.

Bearded Dragons are opportunistic omnivores. Many Bearded Dragon habitats are dry and sparsely vegetated, so food may often be difficult to find. As a result, Bearded Dragons are capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources, including vegetation, some fruit like strawberries and apples. Vegetables such as carrots and some types of lettuce. Insects, spiders, meal worms, crickets, flys, and the occasional small rodent or lizard. Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of plant and animal matter. At a young age, Bearded Dragons will tend not to eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it will eat more and more vegetables

Recognized species of Bearded Dragons:

Eastern or Common Bearded Dragon, Pogona barbata
Black Soil Bearded Dragon, Pogona henrylawsoni
Kimberly Bearded Dragon, Pogona microlepidota
Western Bearded Dragon, Pogona minima
Dwarf Bearded Dragon, Pogona minor (some authorities group this with Pogona minima)
Northwest Bearded Dragon, Pogona mitchelli
Nullarbor Bearded Dragon, Pogona nullarbor
Central or Inland Bearded Dragon, Pogona vitticeps, the most commonly kept as pets.

Due largely to their animated, highly social behavior, mild temperament, ready willingness to breed in captivity, flexible diet and robust nature, Bearded Dragons are popular among reptile enthusiasts as pets.

Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, requiring both insects and vegetable food. A typical diet for captive Bearded Dragons includes ample quantities of leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects, such as crickets, roaches, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms and phoenix worms. The mealworm has a fairly hard chitin (exoskeleton) and is generally low in the "chitin to meat" ratio. The chitin is hard enough to compact Bearded Dragons' digestion system, and can lead to death. Superworms are a better choice for older lizards, especially after the insect molts. This is a general rule and does not need to inhibit ever feeding mealworms as a treat. A significant portion of the Bearded Dragon's diet must consist of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including: collard greens, escarole, turnip greens, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, beans, parsley, kale and carrot tops. It is also recommended that this portion of the Dragon's diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits, vegetables and legumes. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion.

The staple insects in the pet Bearded Dragon's diet are crickets, which are readily available at pet stores in a wide range of sizes for various ages of Dragons. Other insects that may be offered include: silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, phoenix worms and roaches. Waxworms can be given as a treat, but no more than 3-4 a week in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive. The insects being offered should not be any larger than the space between the lizard's eyes to ensure safe digestion. Soft bodied worms are an exception to this rule but do not feed anything that seems too big to get down. Before being offered to the Dragon, it is recommended that insects be fed for at least 24 hours in advance, or "gut-loaded" to increase their nutritional value. Commercial cricket foods for gut-loading are available, but many household food items may be used instead. Insects caught in the wild are not recommended, due to the increased risk of pesticide exposure and parasites, and fireflies are fatal to Bearded Dragons, and most other animals due to their Bioluminescencechemicals, what makes them light up. It is also highly recommended that any insects being fed to the lizard first be dusted with a phosphorus-free commercial calcium supplement, as Bearded Dragons are susceptible to metabolic bone disease if their calcium and vitamin D3 requirements are not met.

It should be noted that in captivity hatchlings are commonly fed pinhead crickets dusted with calcium and or multivitamin supplements. As they age the diet of a Bearded Dragon shifts gradually to leafy green veggies, fruit and other plant matter, but be warned things like Avocado and Rhubarb are highly TOXIC to Bearded Dragons. A great list to base a diet for pet Bearded Dragons can be found at the BeautifulDragons.com website.

In late 2005, University of Melbourne researchers discovered that certain lizards such as monitors, Iguanians and Bearded dragons may be somewhat venomous. Previously, it had been thought that bites inflicted by these lizards were simply prone to infection because of bacteria in the lizards' mouths, but these researchers have shown that the immediate effects (at least in the Komodo Dragon and other monitors)may be caused by mild envenomation. The Eastern Bearded Dragon, "retains characteristics of the ancestral venom system, namely serial, lobular non-compound venom-secreting glands on both the upper and lower jaws".^[1]

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A 20 gallon long aquarium is the bare minimum for a juvenile Bearded Dragon. For an adult the minimum is a 40 breeder, though this is small. Generally the minimum should be 2 × their STL (Stretched Total ) length for the length, 1 × the STL for the width and 1 × the STL for the height, this will be about a 4' × 2'× 2' for a large Dragon. The cage should be at least 16" wide to avoid problems turning.

Bearded Dragons like to bask on rocks, and they use the edges of rocks to shed their skin. It is important that there is at least one or two good "basking rocks" in the Dragon's habitat. Only naturally formed medium to large rocks (such as those found in backyards, woods, etc) should be used, as electric or battery powered heating devices such as HotRocks™ can cause stomach burns and flesh tearing on Bearded Dragons and pretty much all basking reptiles, especially babies.

In addition to basking and shedding, the other reason for having at least one large rock in the Dragon's habitat is to successfully simulate its natural habitat. Most Bearded Dragons come from desert environments, which get cooler by night. Bearded Dragons need a rock they can burrow under to sleep for the night, to give them shade and coolness.

In addition to rocks, Bearded Dragons need things to hide, burrow, and play in. Holey logs, sold in pet shops, are ideal for this. Caves or shelters should not be put in with Bearded dragons until they are full size. Juvenile Bearded Dragons tend to stay in their shelter and not come out, which means they would not get enough light for proper growth.

Bearded Dragons also need proper lighting. A UVB light is needed, with two options being available. Fluorescent strip bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs. An example of a good brand of fluorescent bulbs is Repti-Sun 10.0, which needs to be 6-10 inches away. The Repti-Sun 5.0 needs to be 4-6 inches away, the Repti-Glo 8.0 that needs to be 4-6" away, and the Repti-Glo 10.0 that needs to be 6-10 inches away. These bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months. The owner should make sure to buy a strip bulb, not a compact. This is because the compacts wear out in about 1 month. Fluorescent bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months. For mercury vapor the two best are the T-rex UV heat and the Megray (reptileuv.com) They each are the same output and are 3-4x stronger than the best fluorescent. A 100 watt should be 10-12 inches away minimum, the 160 should be 16-18" minimum and the other wattages should be listed when you buy it. They last 6-12 months. All bulbs are cheaper online. Without a good UVB your Dragon will develop MBD and not eat much.

For basking, Beardies need bright white light. If a colored bulb is used, they will eat less and seem sick.

Temperature is another important health factor. A Dragon needs correct temperature to digest, so a good thermometer is essential. Analog, Round, stick-on, and other non-digital thermometers do not measure basking temperature properly and can be inaccurate by as much as 20 degrees. A digital thermometer with a probe or a tempgun are two recommended types. Temps need to be 95-110 during day and 60-80 at night (the higher end of this range for babies, the lower portion of the range for adult Dragons).

Bearded Dragons are known to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards. Their behaviour includes body language such as head bobbing and leg waving. Some owners have mimicked these behavioral patterns and have successfully aroused a mirrored response in their Dragons.

Pogona vitticeps is the most docile and friendly of all lizard species which is why they make desirable pets. Unlike Iguanas, Monitors, Water Dragons, and the flightier lizards of the exotic pet trade, Bearded Dragons tend to enjoy human contact and to be handled by humans. They rarely bite, scratch, or otherwise attack a human. As a result, Bearded Dragons are a suitable reptile for younger children (always with proper supervision).

Basic rule of thumb is to never keep any Dragons housed together. While they may stay friendly towards each other for a time, one will always get more food. Even though, they do enjoy to interact at non feeding times.

Due to domestication, "beardies" have exhibited rather distinctive colorations. These "designer" Dragons display brilliant hues of pastel oranges, violets, and reds. The most popular morphs thus far has been the "Sand Fire" and "Tiger" Dragons. Much like designer dogs, the price tags of these customized pets are many times the price of "generic" ones. Currently, breeders are working towards and showing some progress of developing a green morph. Since breeding beardies is a relatively new area, it may take some time before that dream of a Green Dragon is fully realized.

They can have up to 50 eggs a month. Females have been known to eat the eggs that were not fertilized/stillborn

When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and UVB lighting, Bearded Dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior, since a sick Dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases they get are: mites, terminal ingestion, thermal burns, calcium deficiency, impaction, hypovitaminosis A, respiratory infections, dehydration, stomatitis, internal parasites, coccidia and other parasites, dystocia (egg binding), and MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease).

^ Fry, Brian G., et al. (2006). "Early evolution of the venom system in lizards and snakes." Nature. Letters. Vol. 439/2 February 2006, pp. 584-588. Pdf file available for download at: [1]

Central/Inland Bearded Dragon at the Henry Doorly Zoo	From central NSW.	Pogona vitticeps	Young Pogona vitticeps
Bearded Dragon picture	Group of Inland Bearded Dragons basking on a rock at the Indianapolis Zoo's desert exhibit.	Two domestic Bearded Dragons basking on a log	Female Bearded Dragon gaping to dissipate excess heat while basking
A male bearded dragon basking under a lamp, enjoying the heat.	Allen Red x Blood Red Adult Male Bearded Dragon Breeder