Fort Smith, Arkansas

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Fort Smith, Arkansas
Garrison Ave.
Garrison Ave.
Motto: "Life's worth living in Fort Smith, Arkansas" [1]
Location of Fort Smith, Arkansas
Location of Fort Smith, Arkansas
Coordinates: 35°22′7″N 94°23′55″W / 35.36861, -94.39861
Country United States
State Arkansas
County Sebastian
Founded 1817
Incorporated 1842
Government
 - Mayor Ray Baker
Area
 - City 52.9 sq mi (137.1 km²)
 - Land 50.3 sq mi (130.4 km²)
 - Water 2.6 sq mi (6.7 km²)
Elevation 463 ft (141.1 m)
Population (July 1, 2006)
 - City 83,461
 - Density 1,639.8/sq mi (632.5/km²)
 - Metro 273,170
  estimated
Time zone CST (UTC-6)
 - Summer (DST) CDT (UTC-5)
Area code(s) 479
FIPS code 05-24550
GNIS feature ID 0076952
Website: http://www.fsark.com

Fort Smith is is the second-largest city in the state of Arkansas. With an estimated population of 83,461 in 2006, it is the principal city of the Fort Smith Arkansas-Oklahoma Metropolitan Statistical Area, a region of 288,818 residents which encompasses the counties of Crawford, Franklin, and Sebastian in Arkansas, and Le Flore and Sequoyah in Oklahoma. The city serves as one of two county seats for Sebastian County .

Fort Smith has a sister city relationship with Cisterna, Italy, site of the World War II Battle of Cisterna fought by the United States Army Rangers commanded by Fort Smith native William O. Darby.

Fort Smith lies on the Arkansas-Oklahoma state border, situated at the junction of the Arkansas and Poteau Rivers, also known as Belle Point. The city began as a western frontier military post in 1817 and would later become well-known for its role in the settling of the "Wild West" and its law enforcement heritage.

As of 2007, Fort Smith was selected by the US Department of the Interior to be the location of the new US Marshal Service National Museum.

Contents

Fort Smith was founded in 1817 as a military settlement to patrol the neighboring Indian Territory. The fort was abandoned in 1824 but a town founded by John Rogers had formed alongside the fort by that time. In 1838 the fort was re-occupied and expanded. In 1871 the fort was again abandoned. However, the town continued to thrive despite the absence of the fort.

Two of Fort Smith's most notable historic figures were Judge Isaac Parker and William Henry Harrison Clayton. In 1874, William Henry Harrison Clayton was appointed United States Attorney for the Western District of Arkansas by President Ulysses S. Grant. Fort Smith was a bustling community full of brothels, saloons and outlaws across the river from Indian Territory. William Clayton realized that a strong judge would be necessary to bring law and order to the region. He knew of a strong judge in Isaac Parker. There was a problem, Judge Parker had been appointed Chief Justice of Utah Territory and confirmed by the US Senate. With the help of President Grant and US Senator Powell Clayton, former governor of Arkansas, William Clayton was able to undo that appointment and redirect Judge Parker to Fort Smith.

Judge Isaac Parker, Hanging Judge
Judge Isaac Parker, Hanging Judge

Judge Isaac Parker served as US District Judge from 1875-1896. He was nicknamed the "Hanging Judge" because in his first term after assuming his post he tried eighteen people for murder, convicted fifteen of them, sentenced eight of those to die, and hanged six of them on one day. Over the course of his career in Fort Smith, Parker sentenced 160 people to hang, of those 79 actually were executed on the gallows. Judge Parker represented the only real law the rough and tumble frontier border town had at the time. His courthouse is now a National Historic Site where "More men were put to death by the U.S. Government... than in any other place in American history." [1]

William Clayton was appointed US Attorney by four different presidents and later served as Chief Justice of Indian Territory. He was instrumental in achieving statehood for Oklahoma and together with Territorial Governor Frank Frantz, carried the Oklahoma Constitution to President Teddy Roosevelt. Governor Frantz and Judge Clayton both lost their territorial positions when Oklahoma was admitted to the Union.

Fort Smith is located at 35°22′7″N, 94°23′55″W (35.368691, -94.398737).GR1

According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 52.9 square miles (137.1 km²), of which, 50.3 square miles (130.4 km²) of it is land and 2.6 square miles (6.7 km²) of it (4.89%) is water.

Fort Smith enjoys a temperate climate with generally mild winters and hot, humid summers. Winter daytime highs average near 50 degrees while summer highs often top 90 degrees. Fort Smith is situated near an area known as Tornado Alley in the central United States. The city has been struck by three major tornadoes which occurred in the years of 1898, 1927 and 1996.

Monthly Normal and Record High and Low Temperatures
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Rec High °F 81 86 94 95 98 105 111 110 109 96 86 82
Norm High °F 48.1 54.8 64.2 73.2 80 87.7 92.9 92.6 84.9 75 61.4 50.9
Norm Low °F 27.8 32.6 40.9 49 58.9 67.2 71.4 70.3 62.9 50.5 39.5 31.1
Rec Low °F -10 -9 7 22 35 47 50 51 33 22 8 -5
Precip (in) 2.37 2.59 3.94 3.91 5.29 4.28 3.19 2.56 3.61 3.94 4.8 3.39
Source: USTravelWeather.com [2]

Fort Smith has long been a regional manufacturing center, with major plants located in the city operated by Whirlpool Corporation, Rheem, Trane, Georgia-Pacific, Gerber, Planters Peanuts and others. In recent years, following national trends, the city has seen a decline in manufacturing jobs as production lines are shifted overseas.

Fort Smith is home to several corporations including Baldor Electric Company, Arkansas Best Corporation, Golden Ventures (one of the largest nursing home health care providers in the nation) and poultry company OK Foods.

Fort Smith is a major transportation hub for the surrounding region. It sits at the crossroads of two major interstate highways, is surrounded on three sides by the Arkansas River and is the home of a regional airport.

The city sits just southwest of the intersection of Interstate 40 and future Interstate 49 (currently Interstate 540). US 71 and US 64 also run through the community.

Fort Smith is served by the Fort Smith Regional Airport(FSM). Used for military aviation for Fort Chaffee and the 188th Fighter Wing of the Arkansas Air National Guard but is also served by three commercial airlines which travel to Dallas, Memphis and Atlanta.

Jefferson Lines bus service also links Fort Smith to other communities such as Little Rock, Kansas City, and Oklahoma City, as well as intermediate points, with numerous connections to other cities and towns.

The city is located on the Arkansas River, part of the McClellan-Kerr Navigation System and is served by the Port of Fort Smith.

Inside the city, a public bus service named Fort Smith Transit operates several routes.

A trolley bus operates in the downtown area, providing transportation between the Belle Grove Historic District and the Fort Smith National Historic Site.

Taxicab service is readily available with Razorback Cab.

As of the censusGR2 of 2000, there were 80,268 people, 32,398 households, and 20,637 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,594.2 people per square mile (615.5/km²). There were 35,341 housing units at an average density of 701.9/sq mi (271.0/km²). The racial makeup of the city was 76.99% White, 8.65% Black or African American, 1.69% Native American, 4.59% Asian (predominantly Vietnamese and Lao), 0.05% Pacific Islander, 5.03% from other races, and 2.99% from two or more races. 8.78% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race. 7.10% reported speaking Spanish at home, while 3.38% speak Vietnamese and Lao [3].

There are 32,398 households, of which 30.8% have children under the age of 18 living with them, 47.1% were married couples living together, 12.3% had a female householder with no husband present, and 36.3% are classified as non-families by the United States Census Bureau. Of 32,398 households, 1,388 are unmarried partner households: 1,259 heterosexual, 84 same-sex male, and 45 same-sex female households. (Note: Stigmatization of homosexuality may prevent same-sex couples from reporting themselves as such on the US Census.) 30.7% of all households were made up of individuals and 10.9% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.42 and the average family size was 3.03.

In the city the population was spread out with 25.4% under the age of 18, 9.8% from 18 to 24, 29.3% from 25 to 44, 21.8% from 45 to 64, and 13.7% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 35 years. For every 100 females there were 94.1 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 91.0 males.

The median income for a household in the city was $32,157, and the median income for a family was $41,012. Males had a median income of $29,799 versus $22,276 for females. The per capita income for the city was $18,994. About 12.1% of families and 15.8% of the population were below the poverty line, including 22.2% of those under age 18 and 9.6% of those age 65 or over.

The city has one major university that is part of the University of Arkansas System. The University of Arkansas at Fort Smith was founded in 1928 as an extension of the Fort Smith Public School system, with the superintendent acting as the college president and the high school principal as dean. Known originally as Fort Smith Junior College, the institution operated within the Fort Smith public school system until 1950, when the school was incorporated as a private, nonprofit institution with its own governing board. In September 1952, the College moved from borrowed facilities in the high school to its current site, initially occupying 15 acres.

During the private college era, enrollment increased, as did course offerings, the number of faculty, and facilities. A vocational-technical division was added in 1960. During this period, the college began developing the programs and character of a comprehensive community college — a new concept in Arkansas and across the nation.

In the fall of 1965, the Sebastian County electorate approved the creation of the Sebastian County Community Junior College District, along with a tax levy on the real and personal property of the county. The governor appointed a Board of Trustees, and the school again became a public institution.

In 1966, the institution’s name was changed from Fort Smith Junior College to Westark Junior College, and in 1972, to Westark Community College, indicating the larger area to be served and reflecting the more comprehensive mission.

Throughout the 1980s and early 1990s, the college developed and made changes within the context of its mission as a two-year institution. A significant development in 1989 was the establishment of a University Center. Five state universities partnered with the institution to offer six bachelor’s and seven master’s degree programs on campus. Between 1989 and 2002, 1,788 students graduated with bachelor’s degrees through the University Center.

UA Fort Smith bell tower and award-winning arboretum campus
UA Fort Smith bell tower and award-winning arboretum campus

In 1997, the Arkansas Legislature passed an act granting Westark the authority to offer in its own right up to nine applied bachelor’s degrees, developed in response to identified needs of the industries in the area served.

The name of the college was changed yet again in February 1998 to Westark College, more accurately portraying the role and scope of the institution.

On December 15, 2000, the Board of Trustees of Westark College entered into an agreement with the Board of Trustees of the University of Arkansas to merge with the University of Arkansas System as a four-year institution. In 2001, the Sebastian County electorate voted to support the merger. A formal request to change affiliation status to that of a bachelor’s degree-granting institution under the name of the University of Arkansas – Fort Smith was submitted to the Higher Learning Commission in August 2001 and approved by the Institutional Actions Council on November 19, 2001.

The merger, which became official on January 1, 2002, endorsed the concept of UA Fort Smith as a unique university, one that offers applied and traditional baccalaureate degree programs, one- and two-year associate and technical programs, and noncredit business and industry training programs. While the University of Arkansas at Fort Smith is the city's only state supported institution of higher learning Webster University and John Brown University each have a satellite campus located in the city.

The public schools in Fort Smith and Barling are operated by the Fort Smith Special School District. Currently, the district includes 26 schools. As of the 2007-2008 school year, the district has enrollment of more than 13,900. It has 2 high schools, 4 junior high schools, 19 elementary schools, and 1 alternative learning center. Fort Smith public schools provide education from kindergarten through the 12th grade, as do some private Protestant schools. Catholic parochial schools offer education through the ninth grade.

High schools in Fort Smith include:

Public:

Private

Fort Smith has a thriving arts community, with a number of venues to support performances. The Fort Smith Convention Center, constructed in 2001, brings national tours of many popular bands to downtown, and the Arkansas Best Corporation Performing Arts Center provides an excellent venue for orchestras and plays.

  • The Vaughn-Schapp House was built in 1857 by Ethelbert Bright. Today it houses galleries of fine paintings, sculptures, and permanent and changing exhibits.

Fort Smith has an active music scene, with frequent live performances in the downtown area by local and national Jazz, Country, and Rock bands.

  • Fort Smith Symphony, the oldest orchestra in the state. The symphony is a per-service professional orchestra comprised of musicians from Fort Smith, Fayetteville, Springfield, Tulsa, Oklahoma City, Norman, Dallas, Little Rock, New York, Florida and other communities. The Fort Smith Symphony, conducted by John Jeter, regularly performs at the Arkansas Best Performing Arts Center.
  • Fort Smith Chorale, founded in 1981 by Bill Cromer for the purpose of providing singers with the opportunity to learn and present Chorale music otherwise not available to them locally

Other theatres in the area include The New Theater and the Fort Smith Little Theater.

As the largest city in the Western Arkansas, Fort Smith offers many activities and attractions. Fort Smith's theatres and event venues regularly host major concerts and touring theatre companies.

Downtown fountain after a freeze.
Downtown fountain after a freeze.
  • Riverfront Amphitheater, Located next to the Arkansas River, the Riverfront Amphitheater represents one-third of the River Park Complex.
  • Fort Smith Convention Center, is one of the largest convention centers in the region. It has more than 40,000 square feet (3,700 m²) of exhibition space. Many trade shows, conventions, and other events are held here each year. The performing arts theatre is home to the Fort Smith Symphony and has seating for 1,331 people
  • Kay Rodgers Park, home to the Expo Center, with 24,000 square feet (2,200 m²) of meeting and exhibition space, and the Harper Arena. The Harper Arena is a covered open-air stadium that can seat 7,000 to 14,000 attendees for a variety of events.

Fort Smith is the main shopping destination of Western Arkansas and Eastern Oklahoma. The greater Fort Smith region is home to five Wal-Mart Supercenter stores with a sixth scheduled to open in 2008. For more specialized shopping, Fort Smith has Central Mall, which is the states largest indoor shopping center in terms of square footage. Key retailers at the mall include Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle Outfitters, Bath & Body Works, Hot Topic, Limited Too, Radio Shack, and Victoria's Secret.

  • Fort Smith National Historic Site, the most prominent landmark, which includes the remains of the original 1817 fort on the Arkansas River. Inside is the restored courtroom of the famed "Hangin' Judge" Isaac C. Parker, and the dingy frontier jail aptly named "Hell on the Border."
  • Fort Smith Museum of History, almost adjacent to the National Historic Site the museum contains numerous exhibits, displays and artifacts that tell the story of Fort Smith's colorful history - from the first fort in 1817, through the westward expansion, and on to the Civil War, the Gay Nineties, Fort Chaffee, and the emergence of a modern city
  • Belle Grove Historic District, a 22-block area in downtown Fort Smith comprised nearly 25 restored homes that span 130 years of varying architectural styles.
  • Miss Laura’s Social Club, a former brothel and the only remaining building from the Row, is home to the city’s Convention and Visitors Bureau and the only former house of prostitution on the National Register of Historic Places.
  • Fort Chaffee, primarily used as a training facility by regional National Guard and Reserve Corps units as well as active military units from other installations. Elvis Presley did his basic training here.

  • Old Fort Days Rodeo, Fort Smith's annual Old Fort Days Rodeo and Barrel-Racing Futurity offers nearly ten days of Wild West activities. It has been held every May since the mid-1930's and is now rated as one of the top all around rodeos in the country.
  • Riverfront Blues Fest, Since it began in 1991, the Riverfront Blues Festival has become one of the biggest, hottest and jazziest annual September events in western Arkansas and eastern Oklahoma, attracting jazz affectionados from a wide area of the blues-rich south, and "name" blues artists and performers from all over. The two-day event makes for a delightful music-filled weekend in Fort Smith, hearing blues, blues, blues on the banks of the Arkansas River.
  • Arkansas-Oklahoma State Fair, One of the largest bi-state fairs in the nation, Fort Smith's Arkansas-Oklahoma State Fair attracts thousands of fair-goers during its ten-day run in late September. They come to see exhibitor competition in everything from arts and crafts to livestock, and enjoy carnival rides, the midway excitement, nightly big-name grandstand entertainment, and plenty of good food.
  • Fort Smith Airshow, Sponsored by the 188th Fighter Wing of the Arkansas Air National Guard, the spectacular Fort Smith Airshow occurs bi-annually every other spring or fall.

Hospitals in Fort Smith include:

  • St. Edward Mercy Medical Center
  • Sparks Regional Medical Center

  • Named by Forbes as having the lowest cost of living in the United States.[4]
  • Fort Smith is also ranked the number six city in America for cost of doing business. [5]

Notable figures who were born in, lived in, or are otherwise associated with Fort Smith.

  • Ron Brewer, Former National Basketball Association player.
  • Bryant Reeves, Former National Basketball Association player.
  • Matt Jones, National Football League player.
  • Priest Holmes, National Football League player. Holds NFL record for touchdowns in a single season.

  • Rudy Ray Moore, singer, and screen actor.
  • Laurence Luckinbill, Stage, screen and television actor.
  • Katharine Alexander (1898-1981), Stage actress.
  • Jerry Keller, singer.
  • Stouffer brothers, creators of the famous "Wild America" TV series.
  • Thyra Samter Winslow, writer

  • William O. Darby (1911-1945), World War II general and hero
  • Larry Reed McCord (1940-2007), Fort Smith attorney and former vice mayor
  • Carolyn Pollan (born 1937), former member of the Arkansas House of Representatives, the longest serving Republican and the longest serving woman member of the chamber.
  • Isaac C. Parker (1838 - 1896), known as the hanging judge.
  • Clifton R. Breckinridge (1846-1932), a Democratic alderman, congressman, diplomat, businessman and veteran of the Confederate Army and Navy.
  • Zachary Taylor (1784-1850), 12th President of the United States.
  • Benjamin Bonneville (1796-1878), an American Explorer

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