John Muir Trail

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This article is about the trail in California. For the trail in Tenessee, see John Muir Trail (Tennessee)
John Muir Trail

View looking west to Thousand Island Lake and Banner Peak in the Ansel Adams Wilderness, along the trail
Length 211 mi; 340 km
Trailheads Happy Isles trailhead, Yosemite Valley
Mt. Whitney summit
Use Backpacking, hiking, trail running, trail riding, pack trains
Elevation Change ~15 miles (~24 km)
Highest Point Mt. Whitney (14,505 ft/4421 m)
Lowest Point Happy Isles trailhead, Yosemite Valley (4035 ft/1230 m)
Trail Difficulty Moderate to strenuous
Season July to September
Sights Yosemite Valley, Devils Postpile, Sierra Nevada
Hazards Snowmelt, icy slopes early season, altitude


The John Muir Trail (JMT) is a long-distance trail in the Sierra Nevada mountain range of California, running 211 miles (340 km) from the Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite Valley south to the summit of Mt. Whitney on the border of Sequoia National Park and Inyo National Forest. For about 160 miles (257 km), the trail follows the same footpath as the much longer Pacific Crest Trail. It is named for naturalist John Muir.

Construction of the JMT began a year after Muir's death in 1915 with a $10,000 grant from the California legislature, and was completed in 1938 with the construction of the "Golden Staircase" section of the trail northwest of Mather Pass.

From its northern terminus in Yosemite Valley, the trail runs northeast to Tuolomne Meadows, passing near Half Dome, then, running parallel to the main range of the Sierra Nevada, southeast through Yosemite National Park, Inyo and Sierra national forests (including the John Muir and Ansel Adams wilderness areas), Devils Postpile National Monument, Kings Canyon National Park, and Sequoia National Park. From the southern terminus of the John Muir Trail at the summit of Mt. Whitney, an additional 11 mile (18 km) hike is required to reach the nearest trailhead at Whitney Portal, thus making an end-to-end traverse of the trail effectively 222 miles (357 km).

With the exception of the first nine miles at the northern end climbing out of Yosemite Valley, the elevation of the John Muir Trail seldom dips below 8,000 feet (2438 m). The trail crosses six passes in excess of 11,000 feet (3353 m): from north to south, Donohue Pass, Muir Pass, Mather Pass, Pinchot Pass, Glen Pass, and Forester Pass (the highest, at 13,153 feet (4009 m).

Contents

The primary hiking season is usually from July through September, though snow may linger on the higher passes well into August following heavy snow years. Early season hikers -- including Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikers headed north for Canada -- have to contend not only with the snowpack and icy slopes near the passes, but with streams swollen with snowmelt. Trail conditions are less demanding later in the season after the snowmelt concludes, and the weather generally remains pleasant for hiking through September.

Weather during the hiking season is generally sunny and dry, but afternoon thunderstorms are not uncommon. The trail is used primarily by backpackers and dayhikers, but also by runners, trail riders, and pack trains. Backpackers travelling at a generous pace usually complete the trail in two to three weeks.

A permit is required to hike the JMT, which is obtained from the national park or forest where the hiker begins the hike. This single permit is valid for the entire hike. Most JMT thru-hikers find it easier to obtain a permit at the Yosemite end, as those seeking to begin their hike at the southern trailhead at Whitney Portal must compete for permits with dayhikers climbing Mt. Whitney. Backpackers entering the Sierra backcountry on multi-day trips are generally required to carry their food in approved hard-sided storage containers known as bear canisters, to protect their food and other scented items from theft by black bears, which are common in the region.

Although the JMT is traditionally hiked south to north, from Mt. Whitney to Yosemite Valley, there are advantages to starting in Yosemite Valley and hiking south. Although there is a significant net altitude gain this way, starting at a lower altitude allows the hiker time to acclimate to the elevations of the trail rather than immediately having to tackle a 6,000 foot/1,800 meter climb to the summit of Mt. Whitney. In addition, there are several resupply points convenient to the JMT during its northern half (Tuolomne Meadows, Reds Meadow, Vermillion Valley Ranch, Muir Trail Ranch), allowing the hiker to carry a lighter food load early in the hike and also to exit the trail easily if problems arise. The southern half of the JMT is more remote and generally higher in elevation, thus making it more appropriate for the second half of the hike when maximum conditioning has been attained.

  • Unresupplied- Reinhold Metzger, 5 days 7 Hours 45 minutes
  • Resupplied- Kevin Sawchuck, 3 days 21 hours 5 minutes

  • Winnett, Thomas, and Morey, Kathy Guide to the John Muir Trail (Berkeley: Wilderness Press, 1998) ISBN 0-89997-221-7
  • Castle, Alan The John Muir Trail (Milnthorpe: Cicerone, 2004) ISBN 1-85284-396-9
  • Starr, Walter A. Jr. Starr’s Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region (San Francisco: Sierra Club Books) ISBN 0-87156-172-7
  • Tom Harrison Maps, John Muir Trail Map-Pack (San Rafael: Tom Harrison Maps, 2001) ISBN 1-877689-34-3

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