Kilmarnock

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Kilmarnock
Scottish Gaelic: Cill Mheàrnaig
Scots: Kilmarnock, Killie
Kilmarnock (Scotland )
Kilmarnock

Kilmarnock shown within Scotland
Population 44170 (Census 2004)
OS grid reference NS429381
Council area East Ayrshire
Lieutenancy area Ayrshire
Constituent country Scotland
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Post town KILMARNOCK
Postcode district KA1-KA3
Dialling code 01563
Police Strathclyde
Fire Strathclyde
Ambulance Scottish
Scottish Parliament Kilmarnock and Loudoun
Central Scotland
UK Parliament Kilmarnock and Loudoun
European Parliament Scotland
List of places: UKScotland

Coordinates: 55°36′40″N 4°29′45″W / 55.61106, -4.49571

Kilmarnock (Cill Mheàrnaig in Scottish Gaelic, and Killie locally) is a large burgh in East Ayrshire, Scotland, with a population of 44,170 [1]. It is roughly between Glasgow and Ayr. The River Irvine runs through its eastern section and the Kilmarnock Water passes through it, giving rise to the name 'Bank Street'.[2]

Contents

The name comes from the Gaelic cill (kirk) and the name of Saint Marnoch or Mernoc who is also remembered in the name of Portmarnock in Ireland, and Inchmarnock. It is believed by some that the saint founded a church there in 322. There are 12 Church of Scotland congregations in the town, plus other denominations. In 2005 the Rev David W. Lacy, minister of the town's Henderson Church, was elected Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland.

The core of the early town appears to have lain around what is now the Laigh Kirk (Low Church), although the oldest parts of the current building are no earlier than the 17th century, extending north and northwest. A comparatively modest settlement until the industrial revolution, Kilmarnock extended considerably from around 1800 onwards. This resulted in formal, planned developments such as King Street, Portland Street, St. Marnock Street, and latterly John Finnie Street - the last often suggested as one of the finest Victorian planned streets in Scotland.

Map of Kilmarnock town centre in 1819
Map of Kilmarnock town centre in 1819
Kilmarnock Cross in 1840.
Kilmarnock Cross in 1840.

Kilmarnock's traditional industries were based around textiles and heavy engineering; Carpets (manufactured by BMK from the early 1900s, locomotives (Andrew Barclay and Sons) 1837-1970, and valves (Glenfield and Kennedy) a company still active to this date.

The carpets manufactured in Kilmarnock were internationally known for their quality and intricacy since the late 1800s. Many locations around the world chose to install BMK carpets. Famously, RMS Titanic was carpeted using carpets manufactured by Stoddard Carpets, the parent company and successor to BMK. Primarily due to a move by the UK market towards laminated and hard-wood flooring, but also partially due to a long decline in the industry in the area as well as cheaper, but noticeably less hard wearing foreign competition, carpet-making finally ceased in Kilmarnock in early 2005.

Archibald Finnie and his family lived at Springhill house (now a Nursing home) near the Grange Academy. They owned many coal mines, pits and other companies in Springside and other places. John Finnie Street is named after one of the family. Shoes were also a major product for some time, with Saxone having a factory in the town on the site of where the Galleon leisure centre now stands.

Kilmarnock had one of the earliest tram/railways in the world, running to Troon over the (recently restored) Laigh Milton Viaduct. The Glasgow and South Western Railway also set up their works here, producing nearly 400 locomotives by the time it was absorbed by the LMS in 1923. Some work continued but heavy repairs were sent to St Rollox. Locomotive repairs finished in 1952 and the works closed in 1959. Nevertheless locomotives are still made by Hunslett-Barclay, as well as the maintenance of existing diesel and electric multiple units. Hunslett-Barclay have also been involved in the conversion of redundant locomotives into units suitable for new tasks. For example, a number of Class 20 diesels were converted into units suitable for spraying weedkiller on track beds. From 1946 tractors were also built in Kilmarnock, with a large Massey-Harris factory present on the outskirts of the town. It later became Massey-Ferguson before closing in 1978.

Glenfield and Kennedy still survives albeit with a fraction of its former workforce, which at its height numbered in the thousands. Kilmarnock is also home to Johnnie Walker's Scotch whisky. On the outskirts of the town is Scotland's first privately run prison, HM Prison Kilmarnock.

View from Kilmarnock train station onto John Finnie Street.
View from Kilmarnock train station onto John Finnie Street.
The Kilmarnock railway viaduct
The Kilmarnock railway viaduct

In 1812 the famous Kilmarnock and Troon Railway opened, mainly to carry coal from the area to the harbour at Troon, but also carrying passengers.

In 1904, Kilmarnock had its own tramway system built. The name of the company was Kilmarnock Corporation Tramways. An electric power station was built in the south bank of the River Irvine at Riccarton. Overhead power lines and tram lines were laid. With continued upgrading and expansion, the tram network at its peak went from Ayr Road in Riccarton at its southerly point, to Knockinlaw Road in Beansburn in the North. At Kilmarnock Cross, the line had an easterly spur that stretched along London Road, through Crookedholm and finally terminating at Hurlford. There had been proposed extensions along Portland Road, up John Finnie Street, West Langlands Street and eventually towards Crosshouse, but by this time, increasing costs and the far more flexible motor bus had made inroads and the trams ceased operation in 1926 during the General Strike. The council decided not to restart the service and the infrastructure was soon dismantled. Today the town is served by Kilmarnock railway station.

Kilmarnock has excellent road links to Glasgow with the most recent via the M77. The latest upgrade was instigated in 2004, and involved extending the M77 a further 9 miles (15 km) south to the village of Fenwick, near Kilmarnock. This replaced the dangerous 4-lane unsegregated dual carriageway of the A77 that dropped to a two lane single carriageway for the bend just north of the Mearnskirk turn-off, and the A77/B764 (Eaglesham) junction (causing vehicles to queue dangerously on the outside lane on a bend to enter the B764 from the south) which were prone to fatal accidents. The scheme also included the Glasgow Southern Orbital (GSO) which bypasses the B764 Eaglesham Moor road to East Kilbride. It was completed in April 2005.

In 2006, Junction 2 was rebuilt in conjunction with the building of the adjacent Silverburn Shopping Centre. The northbound off-ramp and southbound on-ramp are now routed via the access roundabout to the shopping centre.

Much of the original section of the A77 that carried the traffic now accommodated by the M77 has been converted into a two lane single carriageway and a parallel cyclepath.

Kilmarnock lies on the main road between Edinburgh, Livingston, South Lanarkshire and Ayrshire(Irvine)

Portland Street, 2006.
Portland Street, 2006.
Multi-storey carpark - central Kilmarnock's main carpark.
Multi-storey carpark - central Kilmarnock's main carpark.

The textile and manufacturing sectors across Scotland suffered significant decline in the postwar period, and in particular from the 1960s, in the face of greater foreign competition. Kilmarnock was no exception, with the closure or significant reduction of many of its traditional large employers; Glenfield and Kennedy, Massey Ferguson, BMK, and Saxone. Although significant attempts have been made this decline and attract new employers, Kilmarnock saw a continuing net loss of jobs in the five years to 2005.

Although traditionally a main shopping area for most of the surrounding districts, patterns have changed over the last 20 years; traditional centres such as Ayr have been joined by new developments at Braehead and East Kilbride, with the new shopping centre at Pollok likely to place particular pressure.

This difficult economic climate is most visible in the town centre, the eastern part of which was extensively redeveloped with important historic buildings such as King Street Church and the Town Hall being demolished, and Duke Street (the link from Kilmarnock Cross to the Palace Theatre and out to the London Road) built-over. Although providing large-plan retail space necessary for the likes of BHS and Woolworths, the massing and scale of the buildings has been less than successful

More recently Portland Street, which formed the northerly part of the main shopping area, lay abandoned for many years due to a decline in retail trade and planning blight in the face of possible comprehensive redevelopment. The street has now been redeveloped, but has not regained its former degree of popularity, with a Gala Bingo and a J.D. Wetherspoons taking up much of one side of the street and the rest largely occupied by chain stores that can be found anywhere else in the area, although to be fair to Kilmarnock, this is not an issue that solely affects Kilmarnock as local businesses often struggle in modern times to be able to survive on the main streets.

Local media coverage suggests considerable discontent with the local authority, East Ayrshire Council, which is popularly viewed as being indifferent to the plight of the town centre. Although, in May 2007 the "peoples discontent" was more than evident when the Labour administration was replaced by S.N.P. It has to be said that S.N.P. were extremely vocal in their criticism of the Labour Administration - very often via the local press - and now are positioned to deliver the strategies and solutions, the people expect the promises to be met and early signs are promising. According to the local press in November 2007: the SNP have drawn up a Top Ten Hit List on "eyesore" buildings in the town and their owners. The SNP has revealed plans to crack down hard on property owners who have left their buildings fall into disrepair. A Plan of Action is being carried out to get something done with each of these sites. Many of the buildings in disrepair are beautiful and irreplaceable listed buildings such as the former ABC cinema (previously The Kings Theatre) in Titchfield Street.

In 2004 the Rough Guide to Scotland described the town as “shabby and depressed, saddled with some terrible shopping centres and a grim one-way system”. This assessment was perhaps a little harsh, as the town contains some fine parks e.g. Howard Park, Dean Park and Kay Park and residential areas including London Road, Dunonald Road, McLelland Drive and Howard Park Drive. The town also boasts a fine collection of gift shops, cafes, bars and restaurants within the very desirable Bank Street area whilst offering excellent retail options within it's retail-parks at Queens Drive and Glencairn Square.

Kilmarnock has failed to capitalise on Ayrshire's growing tourist industry, although a four-star hotel recently opened next to Rugby Park, the home of Kilmarnock F.C., and some new restaurants have opened in the town centre. It is hoped the new SNP administration will focus on addressing this particular failing.


Regeneration activities have been discussed for Kilmarnock town centre; in early 2006 an application to Historic Scotland's Conservation Area Regeneration Scheme was successful, and as at July 2006 an application under the Heritage Lottery Fund's Townscape Heritage Initiative Scheme was pending. Work has begun on a quality housing development on the gapsite of the former Kilmarnock Infirmary north of the town centre.

In the past there have been major efforts to improve the quality of life for residents in the town's worst housing estates, especially in Onthank, Longpark and parts of Shortlees. However the physical rehabilitation of housing in these areas has only partly tackled the underlying problems of social exclusion.

Much new quality housing has been constructed on the northern fringes of the town to service the demand for commuter housing. The upgrading of the A77 route to Glasgow to the M77 motorway in 2005 has made Kilmarnock a more attractive town for commuters and recent house price increases have reflected this. With a journey time of 20 minutes from Kilmarnock to Glasgow (roughly half that of the existing train service (2007)), the M77 has transformed the link between Glasgow and Kilmarnock resulting in house-hunters from the Glasgow area now considering Kilmarnock as a viable location.

Kilmarnock has 17 schools, 13 primary and 4 secondary. There is also a college with in the town, Kilmarnock College, formerly Kilmarnock Technical College.

The secondary schools are:

The primary schools are:

The Dean Ford over the Kilmarnock Water at the Dean Country Park in Kilmarnock. 2007.
The Dean Ford over the Kilmarnock Water at the Dean Country Park in Kilmarnock. 2007.

The town is host to a football club named Kilmarnock F.C., the oldest professional club in Scotland. Their home ground is the curiously named Rugby Park. The reason for the name of the ground is that when founded, the club played both football and rugby. The club has the largest supporter base of any team outwith Scotland's four major cities. Rugby Park was also one of the first football grounds in Scotland to have floodlights installed. In recent years the stadium has been modernised, firstly to bring it in line with the all-seating regulations, then rebuilt totally to make a new ground. It has also hosted international football matches as well as music concerts, the most recent one was when Elton John performed here in June 2005. Derek Olgavie is also a regular appearance in the Palace Theatre.

The town also regularly plays host to professional wrestling shows, promoted by the British Championship Wrestling promotion.

There are two golf courses in the town, Annanhill Golf Course and Caprington Golf Course, which has both an 18 hole course and a nine hole course. Both these courses are council owned and run by East Ayrshire Council.

The local Leisure complex is the Galleon Centre, with a 25 metre swimming pool and a baby pool, an ice rink, squash courts, sauna, a gym and a games hall. It also has a bowling green and bar areas.

A leisurely stroll around the town will reveal many fine buildings. Kilmarnock boasts a large number of listed buildings. The Dick Institute, opened in April 1901, was severely damaged by fire only eight years after it opened. Some of the museums collections were lost in the fire. It reopened two years after the fire in 1911. The Dick Institute was used as an Auxiliary Hospital in 1917 during World War One.It is now shared by the Arts and Museums Service, and the Libraries, Registration and Information Service. The two Art Galleries and three Museum Galleries house permanent and temporary displays of Fine Art, Contemporary Art and Craft, Local and Industrial History and Natural Sciences. The Lending Library, Audio Library, Junior Library, Reference Library and Learning Centre are all housed on the ground floor.

  • Altonhill
  • Annanhill
  • Ashdale - New development beside Kilmaurs Road
  • Barnweill
  • Beansburn
  • Bellfield
  • Bonnyton
  • Caprington
  • Gargieston
  • Grange Estate
  • Fisher Grange - New development
  • Hillhead
  • Howard Grange
  • Loanhead
  • Longpark
  • Kirkstyle
  • New Farm Loch
  • Onthank
  • Riccarton
  • Shortlees
  • Southcraig
  • Townholm
  • Wardneuk
  • Wellpark

The first collection of work by Scottish poet Robert Burns, Poems, chiefly in the Scottish dialect was published here in 1786. It was published at the current site of the Burn's Mall, dedicated to his work. This edition is known as the Kilmarnock Edition.

Another master of the written word, and from Kilmarnock, is William McIlvanney. He was born in 1936 in Kilmarnock. [1]

Two areas of Kilmarnock "Ellerslie" and "Riccarton" are associated with William Wallace and his father. Claims have been made that this is the true origin of his birthplace, and recently these have been largely substantiated. The claim that Wallace was born in Elderslie near Paisley no longer seems tenable.

John Bowring, renowned polyglot and fourth governor of Hong Kong, was Member of Parliament for Kilmarnock in 1835.

William and John Sloane, founders of W. & J. Sloane in New York City were born in Kilmarnock (and William was the great-grandfather of William Sloane Coffin).

Kilmarnock has a large artisan community including cartoonist Malky McCormick and Master craftsman Jamie Allan Kerr

In the Castle of Kilmarnock, Dean Castle [2], there is an exhibition of armour and weapons, and the Van Raalte collection of musical instruments.

  1. ^ Brinkhoff (2007)
  2. ^ Smellie (1898)

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