Mount Alberta

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Mount Alberta
Elevation 3619m (11,874 ft)
Location Alberta, Canada
Range Sir Winston Churchill Range
Coordinates 52°17′20″N, 117°28′30″W
Topo map NTS 83C/06
First ascent 1925 by a Japanese team
Easiest route rock/snow climb

Mount Alberta is a mountain located in the upper Athabasca River Valley of Jasper National Park. J. Norman Collie named the mountain in 1898 after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta.

The first ascent was made by members of the Japanese Alpine Club: S. Hashimoto, H. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Maki, Y.Mita, N. Okabe. The team was guided by Hans Fuhrer, H. Kohler and J. Weber. After some difficulty in dealing with an overhang and a steep series of ledges, they reached the top and ceremoniously planted an ice axe. The ice axe was left as a symbol of their achievement. Parties on subsequent ascents took parts of the axe to the American Alpine Club in New York and back home to Japan.

The second ascent was completed in 1948 by Americans Fred Ayers and John Oberlin. In 1958, the first ascent by a Canadian team was completed by Neil Brown, Hans Gmoser, Leo Grillmair, Heinz Kahl and Sarka Spinkova.

  • Japanese Route (Normal Route) V 5.6
  • North Face VI 5.9 A3
  • North-East Ridge V 5.10

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