Nihoa

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View of Nihoa Island
View of Nihoa Island
Devil's Slide
Devil's Slide
The cliffs of Tanager Peak, looking east from Miller Peak.
The cliffs of Tanager Peak, looking east from Miller Peak.

Nihoa (also known as Bird Island or Moku Manu) is a small island located 280 miles (450 km) northwest of Honolulu in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. Nihoa is composed of 173.234 acres (701,054 m²) of dry land, surrounded by 140,554 acres (570 km²) of coral reef.

Captain William Douglas, the second Western explorer to find Nihoa, describes it as "[bearing] the form of a saddle, high at each end, and low in the middle. To the south, it is covered with verdure; but on the north, west, and east sides it is a barren rock, perpendicularly steep..." (Rauzon 8). Its jagged nature gives the island its name, Nihoa, which means "tooth" in the Hawaiian language. Nihoa is the tallest of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, with two peaks, 895 ft (273 m) Miller's Peak in the west, and 852 ft (260 m) Tanager Peak in the east.

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Nihoa is 7.2 million years old, and was once a large island before erosion wore it down to its current size. Six valleys slant down from north to south, meeting at the south side of the island: West Valley, West Palm Valley, Miller Valley, Middle Valley, East Palm Valley, and East Valley. Several interesting features occur on Nihoa. Dog's Head Peak (358 ft.) is named for its likeness. Pinnacle Peak (626 ft.) is a volcanic dike created when less resilient rock was eroded away and harder rock was open to the elements. The only flat area on the island is called Albatross Plateau, just below Miller's Peak. The Devil's Slide is a particularly impressive geological feature, a narrow cleft descending 700 feet irrespective of the surrounding elevation. Extending northward from Albatross Plateau, it ends at the vertical cliffs with an 190 feet drop straight down to the ocean below. In this chasm, rare ferns grow, along with several endemic species, including a giant cricket.

Nihoa is a sanctuary for endemic species. Covered mostly by coastal scrub vegetation, the endemic Nihoa fan palm, Pritchardia remota, is the only species of tree on the island. There are also two species of endemic birds: the Nihoa Millerbird and Nihoa Finch. An endemic species of carnation, the Nihoa Carnation is also found in small numbers. Nihoa is also a genus of brushed trapdoor spiders (Barychelidae) with 23 species, with one species the Nihoa trapdoor spider (N. mahina) endemic to Nihoa [1], and another (N. hawaiiensis) endemic to Necker Island. An endangered species of Amaranth, Amaranthus brownii, is found only on Nihoa, and steps are in place to prevent its extinction.

Nihoa was well known to the early Hawaiians. Archaeological expeditions found extensive prehistoric agricultural terraces and house sites, but Nihoa was apparently uninhabited at the time of European contact. These terraces suggest that a large number of people lived on the island for long periods of time. However, it is difficult to see how this is true, as there are only three small springs on the island, and most of the water is contaminated with guano. Nevertheless, because of the island's usage by Native Hawaiians in Ancient Hawaii, the island was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988. In June of 2006, Nihoa and the other Leeward Islands were made the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands National Monument, the largest national monument in the United States. Slightly smaller than Montana, the Monument is larger than all of the National Parks put together, although it must be noted that the vast majority of its territory is water (or under water), as the total land area of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands is only 8.0485 km² (3.1075 sq mi).

The first Westerner to discover Nihoa was Captain James Colnett of the Prince of Wales, on March 21, 1788. As he was later captured by the Spanish and went mad in prison, the discovery was once widely accredited to Captain William Douglas of the Iphigenia, who sighted Nihoa almost a year later (Rauzon, 8). Several kings and queens of the Kingdom of Hawaii later made trips to the island. In 1822, Queen Kaahumanu and her husband King Kaumualii traveled with Captain William Sumner to find Nihoa again. Later, King Kamehameha IV sailed there to officially annex the island as part of the Kingdom. Finally, in 1885, Princess Liliuokalani made a pilgrimage to Nihoa with her escorts, but their luncheon was cut short when one of the party set off a brush fire by accident. The group tried to flee the island, but the risng tides made it difficult and several boats were flooded, destroying some of the photographs taken (Rauzon 12).

Coordinates: 23°03′38″N, 161°55′19″W

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