Robert M. Parker, Jr.
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Robert M. Parker, Jr. (born July 23, 1947) is a leading influential wine critic. His 100 point ratings and florid tasting notes define modern American wine criticism, and are a major contributor to the prices for newly-released Bordeaux wine.
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Parker was born in Baltimore, Maryland. He is an honors graduate of the University of Maryland, College Park, with a major in History, and a minor in Art History. He continued his education at University of Maryland, Baltimore, graduating in 1973 with a Juris Doctor degree. For over ten years he was an attorney for the Farm Credit Banks of Baltimore; he resigned in March 1984 to devote full attention to writing about wine.
By 1975, he began writing a consumer's guide to wine. Parker wanted to be a consumer advocate, unencumbered by the need to sell wine.
In 1978, Parker started a mail newsletter called The Baltimore-Washington Wine Advocate, soon shortened to The Wine Advocate. The first issue was complimentary, sent to those on mailing lists acquired from a few local wine retailers. The magazine had 600 charter subscribers in August 1978.
Parker received worldwide attention when he "called" the 1982 vintage in Bordeaux as superb, contrary to the opinions of many other critics who felt it was too low-acid and ripe. The debate about whether 1982 is a vintage for the ages continues through the early 2000s, but the wine market appears to have spoken, elevating prices for 1982 Bordeaux above other vintages from the period, although price is not always a fair indicator of a wine's quality.
More than twenty years later, The Wine Advocate has over 40,000 subscribers, primarily in the United States, but with significant readership in over 37 other countries.[1] Today, many knowledgeable observers agree that The Wine Advocate exerts the most significant influence on wine consumers' buying habits, particularly in America. New York Times wine critic Frank Prial asserts that "Robert M. Parker Jr. is the most influential wine critic in the world." [2]
In addition to doing the writing and tasting for The Wine Advocate, which is published bi-monthly in Parkton, Maryland, Mr. Parker has been a contributing editor for Food and Wine Magazine. He has also written periodically for the English magazine The Field and has been the wine critic for France's L'Express magazine, the first time a non-Frenchman has held this position. [3]
The most influential, and controversial, impact of Parker's writing is his 100-point ranking system, which he devised with his friend Victor Morgenroth. The scale, since widely imitated in such other publications as the Wine Spectator, ranks wine on a scale from 50 to 100 points, on color and appearance, aroma and bouquet, flavor and finish, and overall quality level or potential. The scale was developed to counter what Parker believed to be confusing or inflated ratings by other wine writers, many of whom Parker also accused of a conflict of interest, as they often had a financial interest in the wines they rated. Many of his competitors, however (for example Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson) argue that the quality of a wine is too subjective to be assigned a numerical rating with such a high degree of implied precision. While most American reviewers have adopted Parker's ranking system or similar approaches, many British reviewers still refrain from employing ratings out of 100 for wines preferring instead a system out of 20 points as in the cases of Jancis Robinson and Clive Coates.
Now it is common for retailers in North America to mark wines with Parker's numerical scores on printed cards on the shelves. Large numbers of consumers, collectors and investors, especially in the increasingly important United States wine market, make purchasing decisions based on the numerical scores that Mr. Parker awards to wines based on his taste preferences. Many customers buy only wines he rates at 90-95 points ("outstanding" in Parker's system) or above. This has had the dual effect of driving the prices for 90+ wines very high, and also making wines rated from 75-79 ("above average") or even 80-89 ("very good") hard to sell, even though some of these may in fact be excellent bargains. The saying in the wine trade is that if Parker gives a wine a score of below 80 it can't be sold at any price, but if he gives it a score above 90 it becomes too expensive for most customers.
Parker himself cautions that they should read the tasting notes to determine the wine is made in a style they will like. As he states on his website,
There can never be any substitute for your own palate nor any better education than tasting the wine yourself.... Any scoring system ... ultimately makes the taster more accountable to the reader. I am comfortable with my point system and I recognise its limitations: there is nothing scientific about it, and it should not be interpreted that way.[4]
Parker argues that he scores wines on how much pleasure they give him. He and others have said that it is the obscurity, corruption, and other problems of the appellation system that made his consumer-oriented approach necessary and inevitable. For example, the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 was based entirely on recent wine prices of that time. However, in the many decades since then, many châteaux have sold much of their vineyards, others have bought additional vineyards far away, the original winemakers are long dead, and many other changes have occurred. Parker says this has created injustice for consumers because the classification causes mediocre wine to be sold for too much, and good wine to be sold for too little for lack of a ranking. He says the 1855 classifications "should be regarded by both the wine connoisseur and the novice as informational items of historical significance only."[citation needed]
Even the "first growths" of Bordeaux are not immune to Parker's scoring. With great reviews for the 2000 vintage, many raised their prices to unheard of levels.[citation needed] When Parker declined to review the 2002 vintage in barrel, they were forced to drop their prices to previous levels. Wine critic Prial says "The Bordeaux wine establishment feels threatened by these new-style wines...and is engaged in an increasingly bitter fight against Parker and his influence." [5]
Parker is an avid fan of Bordeaux and some critics observe that his world of wine is largely limited to France. For example, his Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide, with over 1,600 pages, devotes less than a single page (just two paragraphs) to all of South Africa's wines. This may help explain why so many of the honors he has received have come from France.[original research?]
Because of his powerful influence, his experiences have ranged from having two chateau owners offer him the sexual favours of their daughters to receiving death threats. [6] On one occasion the manager of Chateau Cheval Blanc, Jacques Hebrard, was outraged at Parker's evaluation of his 81 vintage barrel samples and asked Parker to retaste. Upon arriving, Parker was attacked by Hebrard's dog as the manager stood idly by and watched. When Parker asked for a bandage to stop the bleeding from his leg, Parker says Hebrard instead gave him a copy of the offending newsletter. Hebrard denies that Parker was bleeding.[7]
According to Elin McCoy, Parker is a consumer advocate who admires Ralph Nader and has been critical of most wine critics who, traditionally, have been part of the wine industry and have a vested interest. His commitment is to his readers rather than to producers. He believes that a producer’s reputation and prestige is unimportant compared to the wine in the glass.
Despite being portrayed as a consumer advocate, Parker is increasingly criticized by consumers who feel that he has become part of the wine industry.[citation needed] As evidence for their claims, critics point to the volume of high scores he issues which arguably inflate pricing, his apparent unwillingness to moderate the market's exuberance for rapid price escalation, and his propensity to make statements which some interpret as unnecessary hype[citation needed]
Another controversy revolves around Parker's impact on the style of fine wines. According to one Bordeaux shipper cited by McCoy, "the difference between a score of 85 and 95 [for one wine] was 6 to 7 million Euros".[8] Thus there is a big economic incentive for winemakers to abandon centuries of tradition and make wines in a style that Parker will like and the public will buy.
His critics such as Golo Weber claim that he likes less-acidic, riper wines with significant amounts of oak, alcohol, and extract. This has led to changes in viticulture and wine making practices, such as reducing yields by green harvesting, harvesting as late as possible for maximum ripeness, not filtering the wine, and the use of new techniques such as microoxygenation to soften tannins.[9] This "Parkerization" has led to fears that his influence is leading to a homogenization of wine styles around the world. This point of view is presented in the 2004 documentary, Mondovino, he is "a man whose tastes are irrevocably changing the way some French wines are made".[10] Indeed, certain low-producing "boutique" wineries, among many others, have received high scores from Parker for wines made in this style.
On the other hand, Parker himself is highly critical of "industrial wines with little flavor and no authenticity." [11] He believes that there are still undiscovered regions and wines that can successfully challenge the wine establishment.
Wine critic Jancis Robinson reviewed the 2003 vintage of Château Pavie, an estate much favored by Parker since Gérard Perse took it over, describing it thus: [12] "Completely unappetising overripe aromas. Why? Porty sweet. Port is best from the Douro not St.Emilion. Ridiculous wine more reminiscent of a late-harvest Zinfandel than a red Bordeaux with its unappetising green notes...12/20"
Yet the trade weren't too bothered because they believed that the wine was in a style that Parker and many other wine critics would like it: "It is widely anticipated that Robert Parker will love it and we predict a massive score,' said Stephen Browett at UK wine merchants Farr Vintners." They were correct:
Decanter's James Lawther MW rated the 2003 Pavie highly. Giving it 4 stars out of 5, he commented on the almost port-style of the wine. But he does not believe the 12/20 rating for the Pavie is justified. 'It's a stylistic question. It's not a Bordeaux-style wine, it's very rich. But you can't justify giving it 12/20, that implies that the wine is unacceptable, that it's a flawed wine,' said Lawther. American magazine and website, Wine Spectator, gave this year's Pavie 95-100/100. James Suckling, tasting for Wine Spectator finished his tasting note saying, 'got to like this'. Thierry Desseauve of French wine magazine La Revue du Vin de France quashed suggestions that there was a continental divide over the wine and hinted that Robinson either tasted a dud sample or has a personal agenda. 'Frankly, the Pavie 2003 is superb. We [himself and top French wine writer, Michel Bettane] tasted it several times. Some of the samples at the Union des Grands Crus tasting were very bad. I find it hard to believe that one cannot like this wine. Perse has many enemies in Bordeaux and elsewhere. I think some tasters get carried along by this. I think he [Perse] is judged by who he is, not by the wines he produces,' said Desseauve.
There was an ensuing war of words between Parker and Robinson. [14]
Parker has written eleven books on wine that have been best sellers not only in the United States, but also in their translated versions in France, Japan, Germany, Sweden and Russia.
- 1985 - Bordeaux (revised and expanded, 1991) Received the Glenfiddich Award as England's top wine book of 1986. The 1991 revised and expanded edition was the winner of the IACP Award (International Association of Cooking Professionals) as the top wine book of the year in 1992. The 1994 French language edition spent three months on France's "Best Seller" list. The German language edition won that country's top prize for books on wine and gastronomy, the "Goldene Feder."
- 1987 - Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide (New editions were published in 1989, 1993, 1995, 1999 and 2002) In 1997/1998, Le Guide Parker (the French language edition) spent 27 weeks on France's "Best Seller" list.
- 1987 - The Wines of the Rhône Valley and Provence Received the Tastemaker's Award in 1989 as the top wine book of the year published in the U.S. and The Wine Guild's Wine Book of the Year Award in The United Kingdom.
- 1990 - Burgundy
- 1997 - The Wines of the Rhone Valley
- 2005 - The World's Greatest Wine Estates
- 1993 - Chevalier de l'Ordre National du Mérite
- 1993 - Wine and Vine Communication Award from Moet-Hennessey
- 1995 - Declared Honorary Citizen of Chateauneuf du Pape
- 1997 - James Beard Foundation Wine and Spirits Professional of 1997
- 1999 - Chevalier de l'Ordre de la Légion d'honneur.
Robert Parker is one of only a handful of foreigners to have received France's two highest Presidential honors.
- Echikson, William (2004). Noble Rot. New York: Norton.
- McCoy, Elin (2005). The Emperor of Wine: the Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Rein of American Taste. New York: HarperCollins.
- Prial, Frank J. Decantations: Reflections on Wine by the New York Times Wine Critic. NY: St. Martin's Grifin, 2001.
- Hughes, Samuel. Taste: The wine advocate and his empire. Pennsylvania Gazette, October 25, 2005. [1]
- Footnotes
- ^ Robert M. Parker, Jr.
- ^ Prial, Frank J. Decantations: Reflections on Wine by the New York Times Wine Critic. NY: St. Martin's Grifin, 2001.
- ^ About Robert M. Parker, Jr.
- ^ Robert M. Parker, Jr. The Wine Advocate Rating System. eRobertParker.com. http://dat.erobertparker.com/info/legend.asp
- ^ Prial, Frank J. Decantations: Reflections on Wine by the New York Times Wine Critic. NY: St. Martin's Grifin, 2001.
- ^ McCoy, pages 159-160.
- ^ McCoy, pages 159-160.
- ^ McCoy, Elin (2005). The Emperor of Wine: the Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Rein of American Taste. New York: HarperCollins.
- ^ Taber, George M. Judgment of Paris: California vs France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting that Revolutionized Wine. NY: Scribner, 2005.
- ^ "Wine competition pits France v US", BBC News, 2006-05-25. Retrieved on 2007-12-18.
- ^ http://www.upenn.edu/gazette/1105/1105arts01.html
- ^ Styles, Oliver (2004-04-14). Parker and Robinson in war of words. Decanter. Retrieved on 2007-04-18.
- ^ Styles, Oliver (2004-04-14). Parker and Robinson in war of words. Decanter. Retrieved on 2007-12-26.
- ^ Robinson, Jancis (2004-04-22). Ch Pavie 2003 - peace breaks out. www.jancisrobinson.com. Retrieved on 2007-04-18.
- The Wine Advocate
- Hedonistic Fruit Bombs, a February 2005 article in London Review of Books, with biographical information.
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