Zori

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Straw Zori from the 19th century
Straw Zori from the 19th century
Modern, plastic women's zori
Modern, plastic women's zori

Zori (ja: 草履 zōri) are thonged Japanese sandals made of rice straw or other plant fibers, lacquered wood, or —increasingly— synthetic materials. Zori are quite similar to flip-flops, which first appeared in the United States sometime around World War II as rubber imitations of the wooden thong sandals long worn in Japan.

The traditional forms of zori are seen when worn with other traditional clothing; modern forms are fairly common, especially in summer. While geta are nowadays worn with the informal yukata, zori are associated with the more formal kimono. The formality of the occasion affects the choice of kimono and zori. The bulrush covered zori that resemble tatami mats are not used with kimono, but are considered working wear or matched with casual Western or Japanese clothing, for example jinbei. Thus they rank close to the wooden geta.

Women's vinyl (plastic) zori are formal, but less formal than fabric, sometimes brocade covered zori, that are used with the most formal of kimono, for example, wedding and funeral wear. Men's zori are often plastic straw imitation, with foam or cork soles. The hanao, or thongs, for men are often white or black. Women's zori can also be of straw imitation, but the hanao are usually red, and they rank below colored vinyl or brocade zori in formality. As formal wear, all plastic and fabric zori for women require the use of white tabi socks. Men have more latitude, and can use the same imitation zori with both informal (without tabi) and formal wear with tabi socks.

The hanao is attached symmetrically, so there is no difference between left and right shoe. The hanao of zori can be made of velour-like material, as in the case of plastic straw imitation zori. The hanao for more formal coloured vinyl zori are either thin vinyl or brocade straps, or wider and padded vinyl or fabric straps. The fabric is often either the fabric used for the shoe, or chirimen, crepe-like Japanese silk or rayon fabric. Men's zori might also feature leather or leather imitation hanao. The hanao wear and stretch easily, and the hanao fashion and the coordination of accessories sometimes calls for replacing the hanao. The hanao can be replaced through flaps of the sole.

Women's zori are seldom flat, except for the straw imitation zori. The soles come in different thicknesses and angles. There are even modern zori that are left uncovered by fabric or vinyl, and the shoe, except for the inner sole, is black, hard plastic with a non-slip outer sole. Usually the outer sole is gray, genuine leather.

Like all Japanese sandals, zori allow for free circulation of air around the feet, a feature that probably came about because of the humid climate that predominates throughout most of Japan. They are easily slipped on and off, which is important in a culture where shoes are constantly removed and put back on. In a tight kimono tying shoelaces would be impractical, which serves as one explanation for the triumph of the thong shoe in Japan.

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